Preface: When asked discuss this topic at the SCWTCGTB Education Day, I was provided with a list of questions from Dr. Peggy Gainey, which became the outline of this presentation. Please note, all member breeders may not agree with all the personal opinions shared herein. There may be additional detail included that was not covered as I fill in my outline from Education Day for Wheaten Words.
The breeders present were invited to jump in with their opinions at any point and we did have some great discussions.
First Things First
We are talking about “reputable breeders” and what we do that make us stand out from back yard breeders and puppy mills. If you bought your dog from a pet store, backyard breeder or rescued your wheaten, this is not a slight again your dog. It is strictly to discuss what we as reputable breeders do to preserve and protect the SCWT. Anyone can join the SCWTCGTB, it does not matter from where you received your dog. What does matter, is if you go out and buy a dog from another source in the future. (Rescue is always excluded from this rule). Reputable breeders breed for the betterment of the breed and not for financial gain. We must live by the National Club (SCWTCA) Code of Ethics (also adopted by this Club). Other breeders do not have to live up to any standards, they can just breed dogs with no concerns about health, structure and temperament.
These are not non-allergic dogs! They have a single coat that resembles hair not fur and experience a minimal amount of shedding and therefore may be ideal for those that have allergies to fur. This doesn’t mean if you are allergic to the saliva of the dog it is going to work for you or if the dander from the dog is an issue. The SCWT is a great choice for those with allergies but no dog is 100% non-allergic.
Why Do We Show
Breed conformation – a combination of skeleton, muscle structure, body shape, and coat type that is unique to each breed – is spelled out in a document known as the breed standard. The standard is written by the national breed club and submitted to the American Kennel Club for approval; only those breeds with approved standards can compete in AKC events. A qualified judge compares each dog to the breed standard and after examining each dog, ranks the dogs according to his/her opinion of the dogs entered that day. Conformation is a way we have our dogs evaluated by many Judges while earning various Titles such as Champion and the different Grand Champion levels. Today it has become a sport and dogs are entered that will never be bred, Conversely, what I will call “reputable breeders”, do show their dogs and for the most part breed those that have attained a Champion title. You may hear, “I only breed pets, so don’t show my dogs”. I am here to tell you that pets and show dogs come from the same litters. It is a matter of the homes they are placed in as well as whether the breeder believes each individual puppy is one he/she would like to include in their breeding program. For example, a puppy with a light eye, or a little long backed, may not be one you want to breed but it doesn’t affect the life and health of a puppy that goes to a pet home. Every breeder also has stories of their best dog from a litter ending up in a pet home. I think is it safe for me to say for all our club breeders, that as much as we all want our dogs in the conformation ring, a GREAT home is more important than a SHOW home.
What is the optimal age for breeding males as well as females?
Factually, male and female dogs can breed under a year – is this the best time? NO! SCWTCA Code of Ethics states dogs at 15 months and bitches at 18 months can be bred. I personally prefer to wait until after 2 years old when all testing including eyes, hips (yes, you can pennhip at a young age). In my opinion it is important for dogs to complete their own growth before siring or pregnancy.
Fertility in dogs and knowing the best breeding age is dependent on several factors – health, size, age and sex. (Male or female – not whether they can). Males are more sexually mature earlier than females and can be bred for many years depending on their health and fertility. A lot of breeders will collect and store sperm from their best male dogs while they are young and motility is high.
Breeding females that are too young or too old can result in potential delivery complications. When the female was bred for the first time is taken into consideration. When you breed a five year old female and it is her first time the risks are greater.
Pyometra (uterine infection) chances increase past three years. Dystocia is another concern. There are many types of dystocia, but the most commonly reported are: abnormal position of the fetus, extremely large fetus, birth canal too small and lack of effective uterine contractions.
When do you use a sperm donor? Is that a compromise? What are the risks? When do you use artificial insemination? Fresh or frozen? What are the costs of breeders?
A natural breeding is easiest and most cost effective, but not always possible. After studying the pedigrees of the female and potential males, test results and genetic testing, etc.; a breeder may find the best candidate is not local. Remember, reputable breeders are always looking to improve their breeding program and that seldom means it is the “boy next door”. Many breeders have driven many miles, across many states to sit and wait for the time to be right to breed their female. Sometimes this isn’t possible, perhaps the female won’t allow the male to breed her, the male may be too far away or he is unavailable when you need him. (He may be with a handler). This is when
artificial insemination comes into play. If the dog is available, a breeder will make arrangements with the owner to have the male collected and the semen shipped. The other alternative is frozen semen. Costs will vary but again natural breeding is the most cost effective. If a breeder is using fresh chilled/frozen they are also responsible for
the collection/preparation charges for the male, shipping charges, as well as their own vet charges, which will vary depending on the insemination procedure. Surgical implant is the most expensive.
Hormonal stimulation of females – is it safe for the female or her puppies?
Every time I breed, my vet has given me Oxytocin, just in case I need it for my female and to use when all puppies have arrived if I am not sure I have all the placentas. The use has always made me nervous, as I never know if it is
safe. Let’s say, you have x-rayed your female a few days prior and know you are expecting 7 puppies. The day (or often middle of the night) arrives and your girl is in labor and things are going well. Three puppies have arrived and
now everything stops. A few hours pass and nothing is happening – the female is in labor but is comfortable, yet no more puppies arrive. Do you given the shot? For me personally, it is a decision that is difficult and never taken
lightly. Given at the wrong time it can cause harm. Puppies are in two horns; what happens if two reach the uterus at the same time? I have always made the decision to go to the Emergency vet and have an x-ray and an ultrasound if necessary before administering any drug. Yes, I have had Oxytocin administered by the vet AFTER checking the female and unborn pups. Yes, I have administered Oxytocin myself once when I knew all pups had arrived but was not positive I had all the placentas.
How do you otherwise pick the mates? Priorities for characteristics, temperament, health, longevity?
Reputable breeders breed for the betterment of the breed and are always looking to improve their line, not unlike wanting better for our children. First things first, know your pedigree. Second, know the pedigree of the males you are considering. You are not breeding two dogs but the lineage of these dogs. What are you looking to improve? Better coat, shorter back, better angulation, darker pigment, smaller ears, just as a few examples? Some things are easier that others and can be done in a generation others take planning over a number of generations. Have you had your hands on the dog? Pictures can be deceiving as can watching from outside the ring.
That dog with the beautiful coat may have things you need to feel to be aware of. Know your genetics – does your female carry markers for PLN, DM, or is there some thing in her background you want to be careful not to double up on? Once you know your female and where you want to go you can begin looking at stud dogs, their pedigrees and characteristics. What have they produced already? The priorities of reputable breeders are structure, health and temperament for all their puppies. Shows and Specialties are great places to see males. What a great way to see
movement, which tells you about the structure of each dog. You can also see what they have produced when there is Puppy Sweeps. It is also a great place to connect with other breeders who can be a wealth of information.
American versus UK coat appearance?
Irish Coat Example
American Coat Example
The soft, wavy coat of the Irish SCWT lies close to the body, with a sheen that keeps it fairly dry in wet weather. It is wavy, soft and silky, takes longer to mature and has a tendency to be lighter in color. By contrast, the American coat is more full, and abundant from an early age. The American coat can mat very quickly especially during those adolescent years. The adult coats are easier to maintain but still require frequent grooming.
When do you use genetic testing first, for what markers?
Reputable breeders always test for PLN markers. If you are breeding a male and female with no markers then the puppies will have no markers. More breeders are now testing for Degenerative Myopathy. When you are looking seriously at a male you always share test results, pedigrees and as much information as you can including up to date health testing records.
Are there professional brokers or breeding consultants for our wheatens?
NOT for reputable breeders. Having a good mentor is imperative when you are new in the breed and there are many long time breeders that are always willing to share their knowledge.
Propensity for allergies, cancers, bad hips, knees, immune disorders etc.
Reputable breeders always endeavor to breed the healthiest puppies possible. We are bound by our Code of Ethics to test eyes, and hips. Some breeders will also include, elbow, patella and heart testing. The vast majority of SCWTCA members test for PLN. As mentioned previously, DM testing is becoming more commonplace. Unfortunately, we do not have testing for PLE and other diseases. Allergies and cancers are harder to identify when breeding. Studying pedigrees and talking to long time breeders can help identify dogs that have had specific issues in their pedigrees that you may not otherwise be aware of when looking at different dogs. Never underestimate the value of those that have been in the breed for a long time.
Is PLE/PLN reliably not a health problem if the wheaten is homozygous for the markers?
First, at this time there is no PLE testing, only PLN. There are NO guarantees. There have been Homozygous dogs that live long lives. Is there a protective gene? Are there more than 2 genes? We do not have all the answers but we use this information as a “tool in the tool box” when planning a breeding. I asked Dr. Littman about neutering a 2/2 male when this testing first came out. Her reply was that we cannot exclude all the 2/2 dogs or it may create other issues in the gene pool. We need to use these dogs CAREFULLY if they bring things to the table that are of benefit. Example – you would never breed two dogs carrying 2 markers each. You may consider breeding a dog with 2 markers to one that has 0 markers if there was good reason to do so. These are the things that reputable breeders take into consideration every time they breed. It isn’t a matter of having a male and a female, breeding them and having a litter of cute puppies. A lot of time, effort and money go into selecting the right male for your breeding program. SCWTCA continues to support programs to find more answers.
Most importantly, how can we get unbiased information about the health of the pups from various breeders?
Always purchase from a breeder who is a member of the FL Club or SCWCTA. You know they have to live up to the Code of Ethics as set forth by the Clubs. The COE can be found on the SCWTCA website. Ask questions regarding the breeding. Reputable breeders will give you copies of the pedigrees and health testing for both the sire and dam. Talk to other SCWT owners. What are their experiences?
I will leave you with one thought (and in the times we live please take it in the way it is meant): GENETICS LOAD THE GUN, ENVIRONMENT FIRES IT
by Kathi Elliott